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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.